When planting out into the garden, plant Mimetes capitulatus in autumn or winter, in sandy soil, in an area that receives full sun. In the first year after planting, the plants need to become well established. During this period, the young plants are in a fragile state and need regular watering to prevent them from drying out. Pests to watch out for are sap-sucking insects, such as mealy bug and diseases, and root-attacking fungi such as Phytophtora.

Propagating Mimetes from seed sown in autumn is satisfactory, but despite the great number of flowers, seed production is poor and for all members of the genus, only 0–2 seeds per capitulum form. In the case of M. capitulatus, it produces on average of 2 seeds per floret from 10–13 headlets per inflorescence. Seed, however, ripens one by one, with those flower buds facing the sun, developing and producing seed first. Seed can take from 2 to 6 months to set after pollination. Therefore, production via seed is difficult, due to their lack of availability.

Mimetes capitulatus can be propagated from cuttings made in February/March, using the new shoots which have emerged after flowering, from the flowering stems and hardened off before new flower buds have formed for winter/spring flowers. Cuttings are treated with a rooting hormone before placing the cutting into a rooting medium of 20% perlite, 30% coir and 50% bark. The cutting tray is placed onto bottom heating of 21–24°C, with overhead misting, which cools down the climate within the glasshouse and around the cuttings, and forms a thin film of water on the leaves of the plants, slowing down evaporation. The medium must be kept damp, but is not to be overwatered or allowed to dry out.

Once rooting begins, remove the rooted cuttings from the glasshouse to the hardening-off unit. It can take up to 4 weeks before rooting begins. Keep the cuttings in the hardening-off unit under 30% shade netting, for a period of 2 weeks, and then pot them up into a potting medium of 30% sand, 30% bark and 40% coir. Once potted, begin feeding with a liquid fertilizer, such as a fish emulsion.

Although cuttings may root, it has been found that plants are vulnerable to pathogens at lower altitudes, as the growing conditions for M.capitulatus are very specific. For this reason, growers prefer grafting cuttings of M. capitulatus onto suitable rooted rootstocks, such as Leucospermum ‘Veldfire’.

The rind graft is a good grafting technique to use, as the thin stems of the scion tend to be thinner than those of the rootstock onto which they are being grafted. Scion material is taken after flowering has finished, from suitable new growth in November. If grafting is done earlier in the year, the newly grafted plant will produce unwanted flowers, and not shoots.

Once the new shoots have hardened off enough, by showing some resistance when attempting to bend the cutting, the material can be taken for grafting. Cutting material needs to be straight and around 8–10 cm long, but can be shorter. Remove the lower half of the leaves on the scion and place the cuttings in water.

To make a rind graft, choose a healthy, single-stemmed, rooted plant as your rootstock. Cut the stem back and remove the leaves except for two. Position your grafting knife on the rootstock with the blade facing downwards and place the sharp edge along the bark. Gently push the blade all the way into the wood and carefully twist the blade left and right, lifting the cambium on either side, while trying not to break these flaps off.

Prepare the scion by making a wedge-type cut (a long flat cut) on the one side of the cutting, and a small ledge cut on the back side, to make it easier to insert the cutting under the cambium of the rootstock. Insert the scion and wrap grafting tape around the freshly made graft and seal the wound off completely. This procedure needs to be carried out within the least amount of time, and cuttings are to be kept in water so as to avoid moisture loss and to prevent oxidation by the exposure of the cells of the cutting, to air.

Place the grafted plants into a mist unit. Do not overwater, as this will cause disease and rot to set in. It can take up to 8 weeks for the graft to take. Leave the grafted plants in the mist unit until a shoot develops on the scion. Once a shoot develops, remove the grafted plant from the mist unit and harden it off under a 30% shade net. Remove any adventitious shoots that form on the rootstock.