The cultivation requirements of V. capensis differ markedly from those of V. bracteata. The latter species is almost evergreen and is not adversely affected by moisture at any time of year, whereas V. capensis requires infrequent watering and has a pronounced summer dormant period, during which the bulbs have to be kept dry, failing which they are subject to fungal disease. V. capensis is well suited as a container plant, grown under cover on a sunny patio, and makes a handsome display planted in bold groups in rock garden pockets, in areas with dry summers that are not subject to heavy winter rainfall. It requires high light intensity to flower well, and to allow the flower colour to manifest fully, preferring full sun, or at least full morning sun and afternoon shade. In excessive shade it fails to flower, its leaves lose their intense glaucous coloration, and the leaf margins lose much of their attractive waviness. Inland forms of V. capensis can take light frost for a few hours, but in very cold climates this species has to be grown under protection, such as in a cool glasshouse.

Plant the bulbs in late summer in a well-drained medium, with at least one third or up to two thirds of the bulb exposed. A 20–25 cm deep pot suits this species well, and the bulbs like to be placed close together. A suggested growing medium is 3 parts coarse river sand or grit, and 1 part well-decomposed, finely sifted acid compost. Water the bulbs heavily in early autumn, wait for the leaf rosettes to emerge, then water heavily approximately once every 10 days, allowing the medium to dry out substantially before each succeeding watering is given. Once established, allow the bulbs to remain undisturbed for at least 5 years, whether grown in pots or in the garden. During the summer dormant period, allow the medium to dry out completely.

For the home gardener, propagation is easiest by seed or offsets, and is also possible by leaf cuttings, bulb chipping and in vitro propagation. The black, pear-shaped seeds are harvested from the dry capsules from late winter to early summer. To prevent capsules from being lost in strong wind, they can be removed from the infructescence just before they are fully ripe (while still slightly fleshy) and allowed to complete the maturation process in a dry, protected environment.

Remove the seeds from the dry capsules and sow them 5 mm deep in early autumn in deep pots or seed trays, in the same medium recommended for mature bulbs, and place in bright light, under cover. Keep moist every 3 days using a watering can fitted with a fine rose cap. Seeds of this species should not be kept too wet during the germination process. Germination of fresh seeds is rapid, occurring within 3 weeks. Once germination has taken place, reduce moisture application to one thorough watering per week, and feed with an organic plant food such as fish emulsion. Allow seedlings to go dormant in summer by withholding water completely. Seedlings should remain in their containers for 2 growing seasons before pricking them out individually into small pots at the start of their third season. At the start of the fourth season, plant them into permanent containers or into rock garden pockets, and if well grown, flowers should appear for the first time in the fourth season. 

Separation of offsets is most successfully undertaken in late summer, just before the new leaf rosettes appear. Carefully dig up thick clumps and prize the offsets apart, ensuring that the basal plate is not damaged excessively. Treat injured surfaces with a fungicide and allow the offsets to dry for a few days before replanting into dry soil.

Take leaf cuttings from early to mid-winter by selecting strong, mature leaves in active growth. Cut away the upper half and insert about 20 mm of the lower half into coarse, slightly damp, sterilized river sand in deep seed trays, and place in a cool, lightly shaded position. After several months, bulblets will develop along the cut parts of the leaf, and can be removed in early summer and potted-up separately. This method of propagation is more successful with V. bracteata than with V. capensis, as cuttings of the latter rot easily if kept too wet.

Bulb chipping involves cutting a mature bulb into longitudinal sections, each section containing a portion of the basal plate. Dust the sections with a fungicide and place upright, with the tips exposed, in a slightly moist rooting medium such as equal parts of coarse river sand or grit, and peat moss. After a few weeks, young bulblets begin to form on the cut surfaces of the basal plate. They are removed at the beginning of the following growing season and potted-up individually. Micropropagation involves culturing small portions of the leaf in a sterile medium inside a test tube or culture dish, under laboratory conditions, in which shoots develop into small plants.     

The developing flower buds of V. capensis are sometimes eaten by caterpillars, and the leaves and flowers are eaten by the European brown garden snail (Cornu aspersa), but other than these, the plants are rarely subject to pests. When grown in insufficiently well drained media, the bulbs are highly susceptible to fungal attack.