Streptocarpus primulifolius makes a popular house plant because of the attractive flowers and foliage but also because of the long flowering period. Flower stems will also last a few days when cut for the vase. It is really easy to grow and quite robust. It will do well as a pot plant indoors or planted in a sheltered, shady spot in the garden. Ensure a warm spot with good light but no direct sunlight. Streptocarpus species in general are very sensitive to light, burned easily by the sun and flower poorly in deep shade. Light shade is best for growing healthy plants with plenty of flowers. Good ventilation is required to prevent fungal infections indoors but if grown outdoors, protect plants from any drying winds by mulching with compost or leaf mould.

Watering Streptocarpus should be done with care. It is very important that the plants should not be over-watered, to prevent rotting and fungal problems. They have quite shallow root systems-in nature they often thrive in very little soil, so allow them to get quite dry between watering; they can be allowed to wilt slightly as they have the ability to recover very well. Be aware that severe wilting can be a sign of root rot caused by over-watering, so check the soil to see that this is not the case. During the warm summers, when they are actively growing, they need plenty of water. Most of the Streptocarpus species 'rest' during winter and this slight dormancy means they need very little water during this time, so be sure to reduce the amount given.

Regularly remove all dead, unhealthy, dying leaves and flowers as these encourage fungal growth, and it also keeps the plants attractive. The tips of the leaves often die off as they get older or when stressed by drought or low temperature or when over-wintering. This unattractive tip can be cut off without harming the growth of the leaf, as it would naturally shed this through an abscission layer and continue with new growth from the base.

Regular feeding with liquid foliar feed during the growing season is recommended. Repot once the plant's roots appear at the bottom of the pot.

Streptocarpus can easily be grown from seed, but only species will come true only from seed. For hybrids, use only cuttings or division to keep all the new plants identical to the parent plant.

When sowing seeds, mix a pinch of the dust-like seeds with a small amount of sand to assist with spreading them evenly and to prevent sowing too densely. Use a well-drained medium that is not too coarse. Cover with a very thin covering of sand, keep out of direct sun but in warmth. Water regularly with a fine spray. Germination usually takes 3-4 weeks, and do not allow the seedlings to dry out.

Plant the seedlings into small pots only once they are quite big and strong. Transplant again into bigger pots when the roots have filled the small pots.

Streptocarpus can be propagated from a single leaf and the best results are from leaf cuttings taken in spring and early summer. A variety of mediums can be used as long as they are well drained. Sand, bark, palm fibre and polystyrene or vermiculite in different ratios are all suitable. At Kirstenbosch we use 40 % bark, 40 % polystyrene and 20 % sand. Water the medium well and treat with a suitable fungicide before using. Select healthy youngish leaves from the centre of the plant and cut off using a sharp knife or blade. Remember that the most active region of the leaf is near the base where the growing region (meristem) is present and so this area will yield the best rooting results. If it is a small leaf, insert the cut end of the leaf into a rooting hormone and then into the medium. Larger leaves can be cut into 3 cm strips.

Always take note of which way is the leaf cutting should be orientated before dipping into a rooting hormone and place firmly into the medium but not too deep as this will encourage rot. Alternatively, cut along either side of the midrib and treat in the same manner. Depending on the species, plantlets will form along the base of the cut in one to three months.

When the plantlets are well established, the old leaf can be teased out from the medium and the plantlets potted up, usually between 6-12 months. Plants that have grown quite large can also be divided as a method of increasing them; do this in early spring and repot to grow on. Mature plants can lose their vigour after 3 to 5 years and propagation as described above can be used to replace them with younger plants.

Worms are the most troublesome pests of Streptocarpus ; they can either be hand collected or sprayed with a suitable poison. Fungal infections are also a cause for concern; if fungus is found on any part of the plant, remove the affected parts and treat with a suitable fungicide.