Plant Liparia parva in a rockery or fynbos garden that has a well-drained, sandy soil that is slightly acidic. It is a species tolerant of seasonally dry periods in summer. It is important to allow it to establish in its first season, by watering regularly during the dry months. Once it has established, its rootstock will be more drought resistant and then minimal watering is needed in summer. It prefers a free flow of air movement rather than a humid environment, and grows in full sun to dappled shade. Add a mulch of compost to the garden in autumn and spring and feed only with organic fertilizers. When established, but still young, the tips of the branches can be pinched out to produce more flowering branches, whereas removing older stems from well-established plants, could encourage the lignotuber to thicken and produce new shoots. In nature, fire has a rejuvenating effect on older plants. To simulate this, prune them heavily in late summer by cutting woody stems right back, leaving only a few younger stems. The plants should sprout vigorously from the rootstock, once the autumn rains begin.

Liparia parva can be propagated by seed or cuttings, although the latter can be quite challenging.

Remove the seeds from their pods before sowing, and discard any thin, wrinkly, unviable seed. Like many Fabaceae seeds, these display physical seed coat dormancy and have a seed covering that is hard and impenetrable to water and oxygen. To break through this dormancy, hot water treatment is recommended. Soak the seeds in a cup of hot water (not boiling, use water at the temperature that comes from the hot tap). The seeds should be left in the water until it has cooled, then sown. Alternatively, scarify the seeds by rubbing them lightly with fine sandpaper, tumbling them in containers lined with sandpaper, or mix them with coarse sand or gravel, in a revolving container. Seeds can also be scarified, by nicking them with a knife, although care must be taken not to injure the embryo. The best season to sow Liparia seed is in the Cape autumn (March–May), when the climate is most favourable for fynbos germination. Sow into trays or directly into small containers, to minimize root disturbance when transplanting. Use a well-drained medium such as a mix of 70% sand and 30% fine, decomposed bark or peat, and drench with a fungicide to prevent pre- and post-emergence damping off. The medium should be watered regularly, but allowed to partially dry out between watering. Overwatering often results in the seedlings damping off, because the medium is too wet. Germination could take up to 6 weeks.

Liparia splendens is not easy to root from cuttings and it is assumed the same with L. parva, since we have little experience propagating it. The problem is that Liparia is very slow to root, root development is weak, and because of this, the rooted plant generally lacks vigour. It is recommended that cuttings are taken from late summer to autumn or spring to early summer in Mediterranean conditions, otherwise at the beginning of summer elsewhere. Best results are obtained from semi-hardwood growth straight from the rootstock - use thin, new shoots sprouting from the base of the plant, and take a heel from the rootstock. This can realistically only be taken from plants in the wild for which a permit is required. Treat with a rooting hormone suitable for semi-hardwood material, plant in a sterile, well-drained medium e.g. equal parts milled bark and polystyrene or perlite, and place in a mist unit with bottom heat (± 24 o C). Minimize root disturbance by planting the rooted cuttings into plugs or small containers. Liparia often produces callus instead of roots. Take the cutting with callus and wash off and dip in a fungicide after which score the callus with a sharp, clean scalpel and apply rooting hormone and place in fresh rooting media and back onto the mist benches. This usually results in vigorous root development. If the cutting has a few weak roots rather cut them off and treat as above for better root set. Rooting may take between 12 and 16 weeks.